Cheap bikes often pack extra gears because low-cost drivetrains are inexpensive, easy to market, and help mask heavy frames with wider ranges.
Scan a big-box aisle and you’ll spot entry bikes with 18, 21, or even 24 speeds. On paper, that sounds better than a modest 8-, 9-, or 10-speed bike at a higher price. The truth is simpler: piling on cogs and chainrings is a low-cost way to advertise “more,” keep beginners from stalling on hills, and compensate for heavier parts. Below, you’ll see where the savings happen, how those parts drive gear counts up, when more gears actually help, and when they just add overlap and maintenance.
Why Do Cheap Bikes Have More Gears?
This is the plain question riders ask when standing between a bargain 21-speed hybrid and a pricier 9-speed model with a single front ring. The short answer: multi-ring cranksets and basic freewheels are cheap to build, easy to sell, and give a wide range that helps heavy, entry-level bikes climb. The long answer lives in the parts list.
Budget Drivetrain Choices That Inflate Gear Counts
Entry builds lean on parts that let manufacturers claim bigger numbers without spending much. Here’s how that shakes out across the spec sheet.
Table #1 (within first 30%): broad & in-depth, <=3 columns, 9 rows
| Component/Spec | Budget Bike Trend | Effect On Gear Count |
|---|---|---|
| Front Chainrings | Triple (3x) with small “granny” ring | Multiplies total speeds fast (e.g., 3×7 = 21) |
| Rear Cluster Type | Threaded freewheel, 6–7-speed | Cheap to produce, pairs with triples for big totals |
| Rear Derailleur Capacity | Long cage for slack pickup | Supports wide ranges from triple cranksets |
| Shifters | Grip/trigger with simple ratchets | Low cost, works fine with many cogs |
| Chain | Wider 6/7-speed chain | Durable and cheap; compatible with many combos |
| Wheel Dish & Hub | Freewheel hubs (not cassette) | Keeps hub costs down while allowing multiple cogs |
| Frame Weight | Heavier steel/aluminum builds | Needs lower gears to offset weight on climbs |
| Gear Range | Many small steps with overlap | Big “speed” number, not always more usable ratios |
| Maintenance Design | Basic parts, broad tolerances | Works acceptably with more total gears |
How “More Speeds” Happens On A Budget
Triples Add Cheap Range
A triple crankset is the fastest way to multiply speeds. Add a 22-tooth granny ring, leave a 32–34 middle, and a 42–48 big ring, then hang a 14–28 freewheel out back. That setup delivers a low bailout gear for hills and a high gear for flats, even if the bike is heavy and the rider is new. It’s not fancy, but it works.
Freewheels Keep Costs Low
Many entry bikes use threaded freewheels instead of cassette bodies. They’re cheaper to build, slide onto basic hubs, and can carry 6–7 cogs. That gives a big “speeds” number when paired with a triple, without the hub and axle upgrades that nicer cassettes often require. For background on the hardware differences, see this freewheel vs. cassette identification guide from Park Tool.
Marketing Loves Big Numbers
“21 speeds” reads like progress. It’s simple to print on a tag and reassuring to a new buyer. Fewer speeds with better parts is harder to pitch. So brands lean on totals, even though many of those combinations overlap or are hard to shift under load.
Why Do Cheap Bikes Have More Gears? The Practical Side
On the road or path, new riders need low gears to start, stop, and climb at comfortable cadences. Heavier frames and soft tires take effort to turn. A wide range reduces early frustration. That’s the genuine benefit behind the big speed number.
Close Variant: Why Budget Bicycles Pack Extra Gears Today
Mid-priced bikes often move the other way: fewer total cogs, better shifting, and smarter ranges. A single front ring with 9–12 wide-spaced cassette cogs can cover the same useful range with cleaner chainlines, fewer missed shifts, and lighter weight. The total “speeds” number looks smaller, but the ride feels better.
What More Gears Actually Do (And Don’t)
They Add Range, But Also Overlap
Three rings give you a low, middle, and high zone. Inside those zones, many cog combinations are near-duplicates. Riders find a handful of favorites and ignore the rest. That’s why “24 speeds” doesn’t equal 24 distinct gear feelings.
They Help Cadence—Up To A Point
Smaller jumps between gears make it easier to hold a steady cadence at a given speed. But if those jumps are created by stacking overlapping rings, you’re also adding complexity. Missed shifts and cross-chaining waste that benefit.
They Spread Wear Across More Teeth
A triple can share the load across more ring teeth and cogs, which can help chains last for casual riders. Still, the quality of metal and the condition of the chain matter far more than the total “speeds.”
When Fewer Gears Feel Better
Cleaner Chainline, Smoother Shifts
A modern 1× (one-by) drivetrain with a wide-range cassette keeps the chain in a straighter path. Shifts are simpler—one shifter, one derailleur, no front trim. That means fewer chain drops and better control on bumpy paths or trails.
Less To Adjust, Less To Break
Two derailleurs, three rings, and a front shifter give you more to tweak. Entry hardware drifts out of tune faster. A 1× setup cuts the moving pieces in half and spares beginners the learning curve of front shifts under load.
Same Useful Range, Lighter Package
Wide-range cassettes (like 11–42 or wider) cover easy climbs and fast spins without the front rings. That saves weight and cleans up the cockpit. For a deeper dive into why many riders prefer range over totals, Sheldon Brown’s page on bicycle gearing and gear inches lays out the math in clear terms.
Cost Reality: Where The Savings Really Come From
Manufacturers pick every part to hit a retail price. Triples and freewheels are inexpensive. Long-cage derailleurs that manage slack are inexpensive. Shifters for 6/7-speed setups are inexpensive. Those choices free budget for paint, brakes, or a suspension fork that looks sturdy on a showroom floor.
What You Trade For The Big Number
- Extra Complexity: More rings and cables to adjust.
- Overlap: Different combos that feel nearly the same.
- Heavier Bits: Steel cogs, triple cranks, and long cages add grams.
- Shifting Under Load: Front shifts are tricky on hills for new riders.
How To Read “Speeds” Like A Buyer
You don’t ride speeds. You ride useful range and shift quality. Here’s a quick way to decode a hangtag and choose what fits your routes.
Step 1: Check The Front
Single ring? Expect simpler shifting and cleaner chainlines. Double or triple? Expect a wide range with more learning but more bailout options.
Step 2: Check The Rear
Count the cogs and look for the high and low tooth numbers printed on the largest and smallest cogs (e.g., 14–28 or 11–42). The spread matters more than the total.
Step 3: Think In Hills And Surfaces
Flat paths and short rides reward simpler 1× setups. Steeper zones or heavy loads may feel kinder with a triple—especially on lower-cost bikes with extra pounds.
Step 4: Test The Shifts
Spin in a safe area. Try a front shift on a gentle hill. If the chain hesitates or rubs, expect regular tuning. If a 1× clicks cleanly through the cassette, that smoothness will show up on every ride.
Common Myths About “More Gears”
Myth: More Gears Always Mean Faster Rides
Speed is a blend of fit, tires, weight, and rider strength. A tidy 1× on light wheels can feel faster than a 21-speed with heavy parts and mild tires.
Myth: High Gear Counts Are Only For Racing
Racers often reduce front rings to keep shifts sharp. High totals on budget bikes are about range and marketing, not race performance.
Myth: Beginners Should Always Choose The Most Speeds
Beginners often ride smoother with fewer controls. If you are new to bikes, a simple setup can remove distractions and build confidence.
Maintenance Differences You’ll Notice
Tuning Frequency
Front derailleurs are sensitive to cable stretch and small angle changes. Entry bikes use parts with broad tolerances, which can mean more small tweaks.
Part Replacement Cost
Chains and freewheels for 6/7-speed are inexpensive and easy to find. That’s a plus for tight budgets, and one reason these systems persist on low-cost models.
Wear Patterns
Casual riders often live in the middle ring and middle cogs, which can wear grooves there. Rotating through more of the cassette helps, but that adds shifting complexity.
Table #2 (after 60%): <=3 columns
Which Setup Fits Your Riding?
| Rider Scenario | What More Gears Do | Often Better Choice |
|---|---|---|
| Flat Paths, Short Trips | Gives small steps you may not use | 1× with modest cassette |
| Hilly Neighborhoods | Adds bailout gears for climbs | Triple or 1× with wide cassette |
| Loaded Kid Trailer | Helps start and stop smoothly | Wide range, lower low gear |
| Mixed Pavement And Gravel | Offers options as grades change | 1× wide-range for simplicity |
| New Rider, Nervous Shifts | Can overwhelm with overlap | Fewer controls, smooth clicks |
| Fitness Loops, Steady Pace | Fine steps help cadence | Quality cassette with even jumps |
| Tight Budget, Garage Storage | Low parts cost on wear items | 6/7-speed okay; keep chain fresh |
How To Compare Two Bikes With Different “Speeds”
- Note The Lowest Gear: Look for the smallest front ring and largest rear cog. If one bike goes lower, hills feel easier.
- Note The Highest Gear: Biggest front ring and smallest rear cog. If you spin out on flats, look for a taller high gear.
- Scan The Jumps: Even steps across the cassette feel smooth. Giant jumps can break cadence.
- Shift Under Light Load: Try a stress-free shift on a mild slope. Smoothness here predicts daily feel.
- Weigh The Controls: One shifter or two? Choose the one you’ll actually enjoy using.
Answering The Shelf Tag: Why Do Cheap Bikes Have More Gears?
Because stacking rings and cogs is an inexpensive way to deliver range, advertise a bigger number, and keep new riders moving despite heavy builds. That doesn’t make those bikes bad. It just means the “speeds” label is a pricing tactic as much as a ride feature.
What To Upgrade First If You Already Own One
Start With Tires And Tubes
Rolling resistance and flat protection change ride feel more than adding gears. Fresh tires can make the same cassette feel faster and calmer.
Refresh Chain And Freewheel
A clean, new chain and a fresh freewheel restore crisp shifts on 6/7-speed setups. These parts are inexpensive and easy for any shop to fit.
Consider A 1× Conversion Only If The Rest Is Worth It
Swapping to a single ring and wide cassette can simplify things, but on very low-cost frames the money may be better saved for a future bike that already ships with quality 1× parts and a stronger wheelset.
Takeaways You Can Use On The Sales Floor
- The number of “speeds” isn’t the goal—useful range and shift feel are.
- Triples and freewheels add gears cheaply; that’s why entry bikes show big numbers.
- Modern 1× setups often ride better with fewer parts and similar range.
- Pick the bike that shifts cleanly in a short test and matches your hills.
Further Reading If You Like The Nuts And Bolts
For diagrams, sizing, and identification of freewheels and cassettes, the Park Tool page linked above is clear and practical. If you want to run the numbers behind gear inches and ratios, the Sheldon Brown gearing page walks through the math with examples you can try at home.