Which Way To Unscrew Pedals On A Bike? | No-Mistake Direction Guide

If you’ve ever asked “which way to unscrew pedals on a bike?”, you’re not alone. Pedal threads are not the same on both sides, and that catches riders out. Get the direction right, set your stance, and the job takes seconds. Miss it, and you’ll round flats or scar a crank.

Quick Answer With Tool Orientation

Here’s the clean rule: the right pedal loosens counterclockwise; the left pedal loosens clockwise. With a pedal wrench at the flats, face the pedal and pull toward the bike’s rear wheel to loosen on either side. Using an 8 mm hex from the back of the crank flips your view—so think about tool rotation at the spindle, not your viewpoint.

Righty-Tighty? Not On The Left Side

Right pedal uses normal thread. Left pedal uses reverse thread. That reverse thread resists precession, the tiny rolling action that would otherwise unwind the pedal while you ride. That’s why the left side loosens the “other” way.

Pedal Removal Directions And Memory Cues (Table)

This first reference table lands early so you can get turning without hunting through text.

Side / View	Turn To Loosen	Memory Cue
Right Pedal (facing pedal from outside)	Counterclockwise	“Back toward wheel”
Left Pedal (facing pedal from outside)	Clockwise	“Back toward wheel”
8 mm Hex From Behind Crank (right side)	Clockwise	Tool turns opposite vs. outside view
8 mm Hex From Behind Crank (left side)	Counterclockwise	Tool turns opposite vs. outside view
Wrench Flats At 3 o’clock (right)	Pull down	Use body weight
Wrench Flats At 9 o’clock (left)	Push up	Clear the chainring
Stuck Pedal Either Side	Same directions as above	Longer lever, steady pull
Installing (both sides)	Toward front wheel	“Both tighten forward”

Which Way To Unscrew Pedals On A Bike? (Detailed Walkthrough)

Let’s turn that rule into a smooth five-minute job at home or in a parking lot. We’ll set your stance, place the tool, and use the direction guide above so nothing slips.

Tools You’ll Need

• 15 mm pedal wrench with thin jaws (or a 15 mm open-end that fits cleanly).
• 8 mm hex key for pedals that tighten from the back of the crank.
• Grease or anti-seize for threads after removal.
• Shop rag; a short cheater bar if threads are stuck.

Step-By-Step: Right Pedal First

1. Shift the chain onto the big chainring to shield your knuckles.
2. Stand on the left side of the bike. Point the right crank forward, roughly horizontal.
3. Seat the pedal wrench on the right pedal’s flats. Pull the handle back toward the rear wheel. That motion is counterclockwise relative to the spindle, which loosens the right side.
4. Once it breaks free, spin the pedal out by hand.

Then The Left Pedal

1. Move to the right side of the bike. Point the left crank forward.
2. Seat the wrench on the left pedal’s flats. Pull the handle back toward the rear wheel again. On the left, that motion is clockwise at the spindle, which loosens it.
3. Finish by hand. Set the pedal aside so you don’t mix sides.

Using An 8 mm Hex From The Back

Some pedals take a hex key behind the crank arm. Insert the key fully. On the right side, push the hex clockwise to loosen. On the left side, push the hex counterclockwise to loosen. The tool turns opposite because you’re looking from the inboard side, but the spindle still follows the same thread directions.

Why The Left Pedal Is Reverse-Threaded

Pedals experience precession: a tiny rolling motion between the spindle and crank bore that nudges the spindle opposite the way it spins. On the right, that action nudges clockwise, which tightens a normal thread. On the left, the same physics would loosen a normal thread, so the spindle uses left-hand thread to keep it seated while you ride. This detail is why “turn toward the rear wheel to loosen” works on both sides.

Thread Sizes, Torque, And Prep

Common Thread Standards

Most modern cranks use 9/16" × 20 TPI. One-piece “American” cranks often use 1/2" × 20 TPI. Vintage French parts use 14 mm × 1.25 mm. If a pedal starts by hand then binds, stop—mismatched threads can ruin a crank.

Grease, Alignment, And Tightening

Clean the first two threads. Wipe in a thin film of grease. Start each pedal by hand for several turns. If it doesn’t go by hand, back out and re-start. Final tightening on most systems sits in the 35–55 N·m range; an 8 mm hex or a proper 15 mm spanner reaches that easily. On travel bikes that see frequent swaps, re-grease threads a few times per season.

Two Safe Ways To Hold The Bike

• Ground stance: Rear wheel on the ground, front wheel against a wall. Keep the wrench near level and pull with a steady, long stroke.
• Work stand: Drop the bike slightly lower so you can use body weight on the wrench without tipping the stand.

Taking Care Not To Round Flats

Seat the wrench fully. If the wrench angle lifts off the flats when you pull, flip it over and reset. A steady pull beats a jerk. If corrosion fights back, use a short cheater bar for extra leverage. Penetrant at the spindle shoulder can help. Heat near a carbon crank is risky; avoid it.

Installing Pedals Without Cross-Threading

Hand-Start Every Time

Spin the pedal forward by hand—toward the front wheel—until it bottoms at the shoulder. This works on both sides and avoids crossed starts. Once seated, bring the wrench in for final torque.

Markings That Tell Left From Right

Most pedals carry an L or R on the end of the spindle or pedal body. Some brands cut a small groove or notch on the left spindle. If the marks are gone, compare thread direction on the bare spindles: right-hand threads climb up to the right; left-hand threads climb up to the left.

Safety Checks After Refit

• Spin the cranks. Pedals should run smooth with no wobble.
• Wipe the wrench flats clean so you can service them later.
• Ride a block. Re-check snugness back at the door.

Unscrewing Pedals On A Bike — Close Variations You’ll Hear

You might hear mechanics say “both loosen toward the rear wheel.” That’s a quick way to encode right = counterclockwise, left = clockwise. Others say “both tighten forward.” Either phrase saves you when you forget which way to unscrew pedals on a bike? Say it out loud, set your tool, and pull.

Troubleshooting A Stuck Pedal (Table)

If the pedal won’t budge, match the snag to a fix using this second table.

Problem	Likely Cause	Fix
Wrench Slips On Flats	Jaw too thick or angle poor	Use a pedal wrench; reset at 3 or 9 o’clock
Won’t Break Free	Dry threads or corrosion	Penetrant at shoulder; longer lever; steady pull
Threads Squeal	No grease	Back out; clean; re-grease; refit
Pedal Started Crooked	Cross-threaded	Stop; re-start by hand only
Hex Key Twists	Small key or soft steel	Use 8 mm pro key; add a short pipe if needed
Left/Right Mixed Up	Marks missing	Check thread direction; compare both spindles
Clicks After Install	Low torque or dry shoulder	Grease shoulder; tighten to 35–55 N·m
Crank Threads Dirty	Grit in bore	Flush with rag and alcohol; re-grease

Care Tips That Extend Pedal And Crank Life

Keep Threads Clean

Wipe the spindle shoulder and the first few threads any time the pedals come off. Fine grit acts like lapping compound. Clean bores mean fewer creaks and smoother service next time.

Use The Right Torque

Loose pedals chew the crank. Over-tight isn’t helpful either. A basic torque wrench with an 8 mm bit covers most models. If yours only has flats, a pedal wrench with a marked handle helps you judge repeatable snugness in the 35–55 N·m window.

Store A Tiny Grease Pack

A single-use grease packet lives in a saddle bag for travel days. Two peas of grease across the threads are enough. Wipe the shoulder too so the pedal beds quietly against the crank.

When You Should Not Force It

If the pedal feels glued and the wrench bows, pause. Confirm you’re pulling toward the rear wheel for removal on both sides. Add penetrant and wait. If the crank is carbon and the spindle won’t move, visit a shop with a bench-mounted vise and soft jaws. Saving a crank is cheaper than replacing one.

Which Way To Unscrew Pedals On A Bike? (Confidence Checklist)

• Right pedal loosens counterclockwise; left loosens clockwise.
• From the outside, pull the wrench toward the rear wheel to loosen both.
• From the back with an 8 mm hex, right loosens clockwise; left loosens counterclockwise.
• Start by hand; add grease; tighten to spec when reinstalling.

Sources And Specs Backing These Directions

Pedal threading, precession, and thread sizes are explained in long-standing mechanic references. You can read a plain-language breakdown of pedal threading and precession. For installation torque and left/right thread confirmation across common systems, see a Shimano dealer manual. Both match the directions used above.

Wrap-Up: Fast Memory Lines

Say these lines and you’ll never hesitate again: “both loosen toward the rear wheel,” “both tighten forward,” and “right is normal, left is reverse.” If you’re searching which way to unscrew pedals on a bike? now you’ve got a rule that works in any shop, driveway, or start-line tent.