For which gears to use on a bike, pick low for climbs, mid for steady flats, high for descents, and hold a smooth 80–100 rpm cadence.
If you’re staring at your shifters and wondering which gears to use on a bike, you’re not alone. Good gear choice keeps your legs spinning, saves your knees, and makes every ride feel smoother. The trick is matching the terrain to a gear that lets you keep a steady spin—usually somewhere around 80–100 rpm—and shifting before strain shows up. This guide turns that into clear steps you can use on your next ride.
Quick Gear Picks For Common Situations
Use this table as a fast reference on the road or trail. It pairs real-world moments with workable gear choices and a cadence target that most riders find comfortable.
| Situation | Recommended Gear Choice | Target Cadence |
|---|---|---|
| Flat road, easy spin | Mid rear cog; small or middle ring (or mid on 1x) | 85–95 rpm |
| Rolling terrain | Shift 1–2 cogs with each rise or dip | 80–95 rpm |
| Short, steep kicker | Shift down early to a larger rear cog | 75–90 rpm |
| Long climb | Use easier rear cogs; smallest front ring if you have one | 75–90 rpm |
| Headwind on flats | One gear easier than you’d pick in calm air | 85–95 rpm |
| Tailwind | One gear harder; don’t chase top gear if form suffers | 85–100 rpm |
| Gentle descent | Smaller rear cogs; larger front ring if available | 90–100 rpm |
| Fast descent | Hard gear; stop pedaling once you spin out | Only pedal if you can stay smooth |
Which Gears To Use On A Bike? For New Riders
Let’s decode the parts first. The rear cassette has the fine steps. The front chainrings make big jumps. On a 1x setup, you only use the rear; on a 2x or 3x, the front ring sets your range and the rear cogs fine-tune your effort. Shift the rear for small changes and the front for big moves. REI’s shifting basics echo this: use one shifter at a time and make the rear do most of the work (bike gears and shifting).
Cadence is your metronome. Many riders feel best between 80–100 rpm on flats, a bit lower on steep grades. British Cycling advises holding at least ~80 rpm when climbing, using easier gears to keep the spin smooth (gear selection). If your legs bog down and your spin drops, click into an easier gear. If you’re bouncing in the saddle, pick a slightly harder gear.
What Low, Mid, And High Feel Like
Low gears make the pedals easy to turn. Use them for starts, ramps, and climbs. Mid gears feel calm and steady on flats. High gears add resistance for fast sections and tailwinds. Grinding a hard gear at a slow spin wastes energy and can stress knees; a classic rule of thumb from seasoned mechanics is to avoid that grind and stay near your natural rhythm.
Shift Early, Not Late
Shift before the hill bites. Click while your pedaling is still smooth, not when you’re mashing. Keep light pressure on the pedals as the chain moves across the cogs, and avoid shifting mid-sprint or under a heavy standing load.
Which Gear To Use On A Bike By Terrain
Flats And Gentle False Flats
Hold a mid gear that lets you ride at 85–95 rpm while seated and relaxed. If the wind rises, nudge one easier. If speed rises with a tailwind, nudge one harder. The goal is steady legs, not chasing the smallest or largest cog just because it’s there.
Rolling Hills
As the road tilts up, click one easier every few seconds until your spin returns to that comfortable range. As it tilts down, click back harder. Try to keep changes small and frequent rather than giant jumps that stall your rhythm.
Long Climbs
Drop into an easier gear earlier than you think. Settle into a breathing pattern you can hold and a cadence around 75–90 rpm. If you ride a double chainring, you may switch to the small ring near the base, then make small rear shifts as the pitch changes. If you ride a 1x, use the larger rear cogs as the slope increases, one click at a time.
Short, Steep Ramps
As you approach, give yourself one or two easier clicks. Stay seated if you can; seated pedaling adds traction and saves energy. If you stand, your cadence will dip, so shift one easier right as you rise to keep the pedals turning.
Descents
On mellow grades, pedal in a harder gear up to the point where your spin starts to bounce. Past that, tuck, recover, and set up for the next section. There’s no need to chase more speed if your spin is out of control.
Wind, Group Pace, And Surface
Headwinds call for one easier gear for the same speed; tailwinds call for one harder. In a group, choose the gear that matches the wheel in front while keeping your legs smooth. On rough gravel, pick a slightly easier gear so the pedals keep turning through bumps.
Smoother Shifting In Five Moves
- Look ahead. Spot hills, stops, and corners early, and shift before your cadence crashes.
- Lighten the load. Ease pedal pressure a touch during the shift to help the chain move cleanly.
- One shifter at a time. Use the rear for fine steps; use the front only when you need a big change (rear vs. front shifting).
- Avoid severe chain angles. If you have two rings, don’t pair big-big or small-small for long stretches.
- Keep cadence steady. Let your legs be the governor; pick the gear that makes the spin feel smooth.
Cadence Targets That Feel Good
Most riders settle near 80–100 rpm on flats and a touch lower on steeper grades. Many coaching sources point to ~80 rpm as a workable middle ground for steady efforts, with personal comfort the deciding factor. On days when you feel slow-legged, use an easier gear to keep the spin alive rather than grinding a hard gear at 60 rpm.
Gear Choice By Bike Type
Road Bikes
Modern road setups often use compact or sub-compact chainrings and 11–34 (or wider) cassettes. For steady endurance rides, aim for mid cogs on flats and shift early into larger rear cogs as the grade rises. If you live near steep climbs, consider a wider-range cassette so you can sit and spin instead of standing through every ramp.
Gravel Bikes
Gravel routes mix headwinds, washboard, and short climbs. A 1x with a wide cassette works well: small rear cogs for open sections, big rear cogs for punchy climbs. Keep an eye on traction; if your rear tire slips, shift one easier and stay seated.
Mountain Bikes
Traction rules on dirt. Shift down before the climb and keep the rear tire planted. On technical steps, choose a gear you can turn without stalling. On descents, pedal only when you can keep control; coasting is fine when the trail is rough.
City And Hybrid Bikes
Frequent stops mean frequent shifts. As you roll to a light, click to an easier gear so you can start smoothly. Once moving, click back to a comfortable mid gear and hold a steady spin as traffic ebbs and flows.
E-Bikes
Let the motor help, but still pick gears for a smooth spin. Lower gears reduce motor strain on hills and improve range. Higher gears on fast sections let you add a steady contribution without spinning out.
Common Gear Mistakes And Easy Fixes
Most shifting woes trace back to timing, chain angle, or a bike that needs a small tweak. Use this table to diagnose fast.
| Problem | Likely Cause | Quick Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Chain skips under load | Worn chain/cassette or cable stretch | Check wear; add a quarter-turn of cable tension; service if needed |
| Slow or noisy front shifts | Front derailleur height/angle or limit screws off | Tune height, rotation, and limits; basics match standard setup steps from pro manuals |
| Clunks when shifting | Shifting under heavy pedal force | Ease pedal pressure during the click |
| Chain rub in certain combos | Extreme chainline (big-big, small-small) | Change front ring or rear cog to straighten chainline |
| Running out of easy gears | Cassette range too narrow for local hills | Fit a wider-range cassette or smaller front ring |
| Hard to start after stopping | Still in a hard gear | Downshift as you roll to a stop to set up the restart |
| Chain drops off rings | Limit screw mis-set or bent hanger | Stop and reset limits; inspect hanger; get a shop check if unsure |
Simple Care That Improves Every Shift
A clean, lubed chain shifts better and lasts longer. Fresh cables and housing keep indexing crisp. If your front derailleur rubs or won’t move the chain cleanly, a basic setup of height, rotation, and limit screws solves most issues—this is standard practice in shop repair manuals and online guides for home mechanics.
Three Short Sessions To Nail Gear Choice
Session 1: Flat Cadence Finder
Ride a calm stretch for 15–20 minutes. Start in a mid gear. Count pedal turns for 15 seconds and multiply by four. Nudge one easier or one harder until your legs feel smooth and your breathing stays steady. Remember that gear.
Session 2: Rolling Hills Rhythm
Pick a loop with small ups and downs. As the road tilts up, click one easier before your cadence dips. As it tilts down, click one harder before your spin runs away. Aim to keep your cadence within a 10-rpm band the whole time.
Session 3: Climb Control
Find a steady hill. Start easier than you think. If your spin drops under your target, shift one easier. If your spin floats too high, go one harder. The effort should feel even from bottom to top.
How This All Fits Your Body
No two riders spin the same. Some prefer the low end of the range, some like to spin faster. The goal isn’t a single magic number; it’s a gear that lets you pedal smoothly for the work you’re doing. If your knees ache after grinding a hard gear, pick easier gears and keep your legs moving.
Ride-Ready Takeaways
- Match the gear to the terrain so your spin stays near your comfort range.
- Shift early, keep pressure light during the click, and favor small steps.
- Use the rear for fine tuning; use the front for big jumps.
- Set up for stops by downshifting as you roll to a standstill.
- Wider-range cassettes give you breathing room on steep routes.
When friends ask, which gears to use on a bike? Send them this playbook and show them how smooth riding looks. Pick the gear that keeps your legs steady, and the ride gets easier right away.