Match your speed to a gear on a bike that keeps cadence steady—use easier gears for climbs and harder gears for flats and descents.
What This Guide Gives You
Riders ask this all the time because no two bikes, legs, or roads feel the same. This page gives a clear way to match road speed to a useful gear, built around steady cadence. You’ll get a chart you can glance at on your phone, plus simple steps you can use on any ride.
Which Gear For Which Speed On A Bike? Explained
Use speed as a cue, then pick a gear that keeps cadence steady. The phrase which gear for which speed on a bike is answered by the chart below and the steps that follow.
Gears, Cadence, And Speed Basics
Cadence is pedal speed in revolutions per minute. Most riders feel smooth between 80–95 rpm on flat ground. Stronger sprinters spin faster, tourists may sit lower, and that’s fine. Speed comes from gear inches times cadence. Bigger gear inches at the same cadence means more speed; smaller gear inches means easier turning for climbs.
On a modern compact road setup (50/34 chainrings with an 11–34 cassette and 700c wheels), the chart below shows common speed bands with a gear that keeps cadence near that 80–95 window. Treat it as a starting point; fine-tune by a click or two as legs and terrain change.
| Speed Band | Suggested Gear | Cadence Target |
|---|---|---|
| 6–9 km/h (4–6 mph) | 34×30–34 | 85–95 rpm uphill |
| 10–12 km/h (6–7.5 mph) | 34×28–32 | 85–95 rpm uphill |
| 13–16 km/h (8–10 mph) | 34×24–28 | 80–90 rpm |
| 17–20 km/h (11–13 mph) | 34×21–24 | 80–90 rpm |
| 21–24 km/h (13–15 mph) | 34×19–21 or 50×28–32 | 80–90 rpm |
| 25–28 km/h (16–17 mph) | 50×23–28 | 85–95 rpm |
| 29–32 km/h (18–20 mph) | 50×19–23 | 85–95 rpm |
| 33–36 km/h (21–22 mph) | 50×17–19 | 85–95 rpm |
| 37–40 km/h (23–25 mph) | 50×15–17 | 85–95 rpm |
| 40+ km/h (25+ mph) | 50×11–13 | 90–105 rpm on descents |
Which Gear For Which Speed On A Bicycle – Practical Ranges
Glance at speed, pick the closest row, then shift so your legs sit in that cadence window. If speed drops and cadence sinks, click to a larger rear sprocket or the small ring. If speed rises and cadence shoots past 100, click to a smaller rear sprocket or the big ring.
A smoother pattern is: keep cadence steady, use small one-click shifts, watch chain line, and shift before the hill bites. Late shifts under heavy load skip and wear parts; a light ease on the pedal makes the change clean.
You can check exact speeds for your chainrings, cassette, and tire size with the Sheldon Brown gear calculator. For climbing cadence, national programs suggest a steady mid-range; see British Cycling’s note on holding 75–90 rpm on climbs in their climb tips.
Climbs, Flats, Wind, And Group Rides
Headwinds lower ground speed at the same effort, so shift lighter to keep legs near 85–95 rpm. Tailwinds do the opposite. Short rollers reward quick pre-shifts: small ring halfway up, back to the big ring over the crest to keep momentum.
In a group, match the pace without yo-yoing your cadence. Sit on the gear that lets you hold a smooth pedal stroke while you drift a little in the draft. When the pace lifts, click one sprocket, check cadence, then decide if a ring change is needed.
Common Shift Problems And Quick Fixes
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Quick Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Clunk Or Skip Under Load | Late shift, cable stretch, worn cassette | Shift earlier; add a click to preload; service cable; check wear |
| Chain Rub In Front Ring | Front trim needed or limit screw off | Use front-derailleur trim; set limits |
| Ghost Shifts On Rough Roads | Cable friction or housing gap | Replace housing; add inline adjuster |
| Chain Drops Off Small Ring | Low-limit screw or worn chain | Set low-limit; check chain length and wear |
| Hard Shifts To Largest Sprocket | B-screw or hanger alignment | Set B-screw; align hanger |
| Grinding In Cross-Chain | Extreme chain line | Shift to mid cassette or change rings |
| Clicking Every Pedal Stroke | Tight link or bent tooth | Lubricate, work link free; inspect chainring |
How To Pick The Right Gear In Real Time
Change early, not late. Shift while the pedals still turn easily and you can feel the chain climb or drop with no drama. On short rises, go one click on the rear first. If the grade holds, then swing to the small ring and add one smoothing click back on the cassette.
On descents, stay smooth. Once cadence zooms past 105 and your hips start to bounce, coast until speed settles, then find a gear that puts you back near 90.
Bike Setup That Makes Shifting Easier
Two setup tweaks make any gear choice better: a straight hanger and clean cables. A bent hanger makes indexing vague; most shops can realign it in minutes. Fresh cables and housing cut friction so each click lands cleanly.
Next, pick cassette steps that match your rides. For hilly routes, a wide 11–34 or 11–36 gives range without brutal jumps. For flat routes, a tight 11–28 keeps cadence changes small across the pack.
Printable Takeaway: The Two Rules That Always Work
1) Hold cadence near 80–95 rpm on flats and mid-70s to low-90s on climbs. 2) Shift early and small: one click at a time, then settle the legs before the next move. With these steps, which gear for which speed on a bike stops being a guess and becomes a habit.
Road Bikes: Typical Setups And Speeds
A compact 50/34 with an 11–32 or 11–34 cassette gives range for solo rides and mixed terrain. On flatter routes you will spend time in the big ring with mid cassette cogs. In rolling country you may live on the small ring, moving the rear one click at a time to hold a smooth spin. Riders with a mid-compact 52/36 can use the same chart by nudging one cog lighter at a given speed.
Gravel And Mountain: Lower Ranges For Steep Grades
Gravel bikes often run 1× setups such as 40×10–44 or 42×10–50. Mountain bikes push that wider with 10–51 or 10–52. Speeds off-road are lower at the same effort because of rolling resistance and loose surfaces. Pick a gear that keeps traction and balance. On loose climbs, sit slightly forward and spin in the mid-80s instead of stomping a tall gear that slips the rear tire.
On fast dirt descents, coast once you spin past 110 rpm. Save the chain and your legs.
City And Commuting: Stop–Start Shifting That Saves Energy
Plan shifts before each stop. Roll the last metres in an easier gear so you can start smoothly when the light turns. Two clicks on the rear while braking keeps you in control and keeps the chain happy. After two pedal strokes, add one click back toward the middle as speed comes up.
Wet streets reward steady power. Keep hands ready for one-click changes. Pick the gear that lets you roll off the line calmly and still spin near 90 rpm at cruising pace.
Fixed Gear And Single-Speed: One Gear, Speed By Cadence
With one gear you trade knobs for discipline. Pick a ratio that lets you clear your normal hills while still cruising without a leg whirl. A city rider might pick 66–72 gear inches; a track sprinter will sit higher. Learn the feel of 80, 90, and 100 rpm and let that set your pace.
Using A Computer Or Sensor: What To Watch
A basic speed sensor and a cadence sensor give clear feedback. Watch speed, cadence, and effort. If speed drops, shift lighter. If cadence jumps, shift harder. Aim for small changes and give the legs five to ten seconds to settle.
Shifting Technique: Chain Angles And Trim
Shift Before The Load Bites
Change early on every ramp. One click on the rear, then another if needed. If the grade keeps rising, swap to the small ring while you still have speed. This protects the chain and keeps momentum.
Pedal Softly Through The Shift
Back off a touch for a half-turn while the chain moves across. Resume full pressure as the teeth engage. This tiny pause prevents skips and protects both cassette and chainrings.
Cadence Windows By Ride Goal
- Endurance Days: Hold 85–95 rpm on flats; 75–90 rpm on climbs.
- Group Rides: Sit in 85–95 rpm, take one-click changes to match pace without spikes.
- Time Trials: Lock a steady rpm you can hold for the course; most land 85–100 depending on fit and power.
Simple Math If You Like Numbers
Speed links to cadence and gear inches. A quick back-pocket rule many riders use is: speed in mph is gear inches × cadence ÷ 336. If you prefer metric, multiply gear inches by cadence and by 0.48 to estimate km/h. These rules of thumb point you to the same ranges shown in the chart above.
Examples Using Common Cassettes
11–34, 50/34: At 30 km/h on flat ground, many riders sit on the big ring with 21 or 19 teeth in the rear to keep cadence near 90. At 12% ramps, most will swap to the small ring with 30 or 34 teeth at the back.
10–50, 1× Gravel: Cruising at 25–28 km/h might be 40×17–15 on firm dirt. On steep washboard, 40×42 lets you stay seated and keep traction.
Common Mistakes To Avoid
- Waiting until cadence drops below 70 before shifting on a climb.
- Cross-chaining to chase one extra kilometre per hour on a descent.
- Racing the group with big ring changes when one rear click would do.
- Ignoring chain wear; a stretched chain makes every shift sloppy.
Practice Drills You Can Do This Week
Cadence Ladder: On flat ground, ride five minutes at 85 rpm, then five at 90, then five at 95. Repeat. Shift one click at each step while keeping power steady.
Hill Pre-Shift: Pick a short hill. Each repeat, change gear two seconds earlier than last time. Find the point where the shift feels silent and the legs stay smooth.
Spin And Coast: On a gentle descent, spin to 105 rpm, then coast. Learn the feel of fast legs without bouncing.
When Your Bike Feels Off
If shifts are noisy in every gear, look for contamination or cable drag. If only one or two cogs skip, check the hanger and cassette wear. A quick tune restores clean shifts.